Chanterelle no kneed, dutch oven bread, made with dried foraged wild mushrooms

Making bread never really interested me much. It seemed like it tied you at home in the kitchen, waiting for yeast to fart just so you could periodically punch it back down. My weekends are very precious and loosing hours that could better be spent outside in the woods, swimming, hanging out or even doing chores has never appealed to me, even though homemade bread is crazy delicious. 

So needless to say, I was intrigued when I started hearing about dutch oven breads, which had as little as 15 minutes of prep time, can rise in the refrigerator for hours or days, so you can get to them when you get to them, and who only need about 40 mins in the oven. 

Mushrooms infuse the bread 3 ways:
powdered mushrooms in the flour,  mushroom
reconstitution liquid and mushrooms baked on top

This manner of bread-making produces a small, dense, oval loaf with a crispy crust that becomes more like a sourdough if you leave it for a longer period in the fridge. 

These loaves are often baked simply, perhaps with some poppy seeds, or olive oil and fresh herbs, but I speculated there was no reason not to infuse the bread with other ingredients and flavors, and so I did. Having just come back from another foraging trip, our larder is rich with chanterelles, especially Cantharellus texensis. 

A pepper-tasting Texas red chanterelle

Unlike the fruity classic golden chanterelle, C. cibarius, the Texas chanterelle is mostly peppery in taste, with the fruitiness fading into the background, and I felt like that flavor would work well in a savory, crusty loaf. 

Plus, chanterelles and their closely related cousins, are often famously ground into powders and used as seasonings. Since they are very thin-fleshed, they dehydrate and grind easily, but their strong flavors mean even a small amount go a long way in terms of taste. So I decided to basically make an infused flour with ground cinnabar chanterelles. 

The darker color and speckled texture looks like whole wheat, 
but actually the color comes from specs of ground-up mushrooms 

The flavor of this bread is excellent, very, very umami and a bit peppery, with a hint of fruit-like sweetness on the very tail end of the palette. Traditional yellow chanterelles would probably make a sweeter loaf.

How to identify Golden Chanterelles, gourmet edible wild mushrooms

Identification difficulty: Intermediate

Warning: despite the frequency with which these are foraged, I feel that the risks associated have been downplayed. I personally believe there is the potential for confusion with deadly species. That said, I believe you can learn how to rule those out. 

Summer 2021 is turning out to be a nation-wide bumper year for the greater chanterelle family, which includes cinnabar red chanterelles, black trumpets, and, of course, golden chanterelles. 

Facebook foraging and mycology groups, Reddit foraging and mycology boards are all flush with pictures of, well, flushes of mushrooms. There's a lot of books, websites, etc out there that talk about how to identify golden chanterelles, so I wasn't really sure how necessary another post would be, but at the same time I'm seeing a lot of misinformation or incomplete information going around on social media. 

Overview and history

The term chanterelle can be used to describe a group of related genera (that's plural for genus): Cantharellus, Craterellus, Gomphus, and Polyozellus. Craterellus includes the black trumpets and yellow foot mushrooms, Gomphus includes the pig's ear, Polyozellus is a one-species genus that contains the blue chanterelle, and Cantharellus contains several species of golden chanterelles, red or cinnabar chanterelles, the smooth chanterelle and the white chanterelle. The lobster mushroom, Hypomyces lactifluorum, looks similar but it is unrelated and, while also being a choice edible, tastes completely different from chanterelles of any kind. 

For most people, however, when they think of chanterelles, only the golden chanterelle comes to mind. 

Golden chanterelles are a gourmet wild mushroom, one of the "big five" mushrooms that command the highest prices globally. The "big five" include truffles, matsutake, chanterelles, morels, and porcini. These are the five most expensive mushrooms for their CULINARY value; there are some fungi which sell for higher prices due to their use in Eastern medicine. 

We don't know exactly when humanity began it's love affair with the golden chanterelle. Asian, African and European cultures all have long histories of the mushroom, and we can safely assume it was eaten before it was recorded as well. In Europe, chanterelles were reserved for the nobility for many centuries.

Chanterelles are a mycorrhizal species, they grow in symbiosis with trees. This makes them very difficult and expensive to cultivate, as one would need to both own a forest and be willing to wait for decades while the trees and the fungi mature, before the fugal mycelium would grow mushrooms. 

At one point in time, all golden chanterelles were believed to be Cantharellus cibarius, and older books will still refer to them this way. With the advent of DNA testing, we now know that there are many, many kinds of golden chanterelles, some with sub-varieities, and that C. cibarius only grows in Europe. 

Golden Chanterelles as a group

Since "golden chanterelles" are a group, there are many, many color variations. There are species that are all golden or egg-yolk yellow, some that have white areas, such as a white stem, white gills or a white cap, and some that have those same variations except pink instead of white.

For the sake of this article, the term "golden chanterelle" will apply to any species that is 50% or more "egg-yolk yellow"., We won't be trying to identify individual golden chanterelle species, as all are edible, all are choice and they share many identification features. 

NOTE: Some chanterelles have a tan or deep yellow spot at the center of the cap. I would personally avoid these. And you must avoid all potential "chanterelle" species that have a cap or stem that is entirely tan or brown as it may be a potentially deadly look-alike in the genus Paxillus. Also spore print any all-yellow mushroom with decurrent gills where the stem seems thin for the cap size. 

Why I think chanterelles are an intermediate difficulty to ID

Overall, I think most foraging and mushroom hunting books leave out important potential look-a-like species for the chanterelle. They generally talk about false chanterelles, Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca, and jack o' lanterns, Omphalotus species, as the only real danger. Both these mushrooms can make you sick, Omphalotus can make you seriously sick, but neither will kill you. 

I'm more concerned about Paxillus species, which have the potential to be deadly poisonous. Paxillus are not super common and don't STRONGLY resemble chanterelles, at least not in America. However, there are yellow varieties in Australia, which could always make the cross-ocean trek on tree roots. And there are brown-yellow varieties in North America and Europe which we will go into in greater detail.

As I've said on the page where I define these terms, if I feel there is potential for confusion with a deadly species, then I consider it to be an intermediate difficulty identification. 

Scratch-made chanterelle tuna noodle casserole

Tuna noodle casserole had always been problematic for me. 

On one hand, I love the IDEA of it: affordable, reasonably healthy, nutritionally balanced comfort food. 

On the other hand, I hated the way it tastes.

Over time I've come to realize that it's not the casserole's fault. Why would it be? Tuna is tasty and healthy. Pasta, in moderation, is part of a balanced diet. Cheese is to freaking die for. 

It's all the fault of the canned cream of mushroom soup.

I HATE canned cream of mushroom soup. I always have. 

As a child I thought I hated mushrooms, but in fact, what I actually hated was canned cream of mushroom soup. The problem was, growing up as the average suburban American in the 80s, the only mushrooms I ever had were in sauces made with canned cream of mushroom soup. Even as a teenager, I ignored mushrooms while foraging because I thought I hated mushrooms.

You see, both mushrooms AND milk products (like cream) have one thing in common: they are famous for absorbing flavors. So whomever decided to put them together and CAN THEM IN METAL needs to be the first against the wall when the revolution comes.

I get it. Not everyone feels the same way. For many, meals made with cream of mushroom soup (from the iconic red and white can) are 100% wholesome, delicious, comfort food, taking one back to thier childhood. My husband insists on Americanna green bean casserole every Christmas, made with canned cream of mushroom soup and frenched onions. Just the smell of it makes me feel ill. 

But with this dish I set out to redeem tuna noodle casserole for myself. In addition to using non-canned, non-processed ingredients, I also lightened it up calories and carb-wise by substituting half of the pasta for cauliflower. In fact, even with generous servings, this all-in-one meal clocks in at under 300 calories. and has two servings of vegetables.

So while this recipe isn't specifically for those of you who adore the canned soup version, you should try it anyway, because you just might come to love it too! My husband did.

Wild "Milky-Cap" & Chanterelle Mushroom Bisque

Bisque, laden with heavy cream, wine, butter and starch, isn't exactly a healthy meal. As such, people tend to save them for special occasions. To a forager, this might mean you wait to celebrate a large haul of choice mushrooms, like morels, porcini, or chanterelles. But I disagree! An event like that is a celebration enough, you don't need a rich soup to make it better. I prefer to use a bisque like this on the kind of haul I had this weekend--a haul of "meh" mushrooms: edible, but hardly choice, and not a whole lot of them. Your basic B grade mushrooms.

While out blueberry picking, I found amount of "meh" mushrooms. One small bolete (not one of the spectacular ones), a few chantrelles that were pretty dried out (from the heat and lack of rain we've been having), and a number of lactarius, or "milky-cap" mushrooms, mostly Lactarius voluminous, and one small Lactarius corrugis. All told, about 2 cups of wild mushrooms, once chopped.

The genus Lactarius, often called "milky-cap" or "milk-cap" mushrooms are a fairly safe group for a novice to experiment with. The genus as a whole is pretty easy to ID (they have attached gills, that may run slightly down the stem, and breaking these gills will release a "milky" liquid, called latex). Once you have confirmed that you have a Lactarius in North America, it won't kill you (provided you are a healthy adult), though there are many that will make you sick.