Foraging recipe: Oyster and honeycomb mushroom Sisig

Don't want to hear me go on and on about foraging? Click here to jump to the recipe. 

I find myself foraging the same foods (my favorites) year after year, rather than focusing on trying new things for variety. So this year I set out with clear goals in mind:

1.  I was going to try and find honeycomb fungus (Favolus brasiliensis), an early-season polypore superfood that can only be found in this part of Texas in unusually rainy springs. 
2. I was going to pick lots of early-season giant ragweed, Ambrosia trifida, and experiment with it in the kitchen. 

Ultimately, I was successful in the first, but unsuccessful in the second. 

The flooding blocked off many familiar trails, and made others too dangerous to attempt

Here's what happened. I arrived at the park where I know lots of giant ragweed grows only to find that it was closed for safety considerations due to flooding. Several bridges were out, including the one I would have needed to use to get to the giant ragweed field. So that was a no-go. 

Instead, I decided to check out the nature preserve that butts up against the park in question. This preserve is on the other side of a large creek/small river from the park, but shares a lot of ecological features. Unfortunately, both entrances to the preserve were flooded out as well. 

Something compelled me to keep walking past the main entrances, uphill, to see if there was another way into the preserve. Eventually, I found a small desire path/trail, perhaps made by mountain bikers, that seemed to be clear, and I made my way inside.   

Even though I had been in this preserve many times before, I found myself in a part of it that was completely unfamiliar. Fortunately, more flooding and downed trees blocked most of the meandering and crossing trails, offering me only one way forward. Occasionally it would appear that there were alternate trails that were clear, but always I would find them blocked at some point, leading to a lot of climbing over downed trees, going off-trail to bypass bogs and a ton of backtracking. 

Eventually I did find one branch of the desire path I was on that connected to the main trails of the preserve, but ultimately those trails ended up completely impassable, leading me back to the desire paths made by mountain bikers and fishermen. 

After an hour and a half of that, I decided to give up on trying to find a field of giant ragweed and simply harvest the abundance that was all around me. Within 30 minutes my bags were bulging with favorites like curly dock, greenbrier, wood ear mushrooms and wild garlic scapes. And then I finally found some of the honeycomb fungus I've been looking for years! 

It took me another hour to get out of the preserve. I was absolutely drenched, covered in mud, and feeling amazing!

Once home, I had my first usable batch of honeycomb fungus, or Favolus brasiliensis, or possibly the related Favolus teniculus. Both are edible, grow in my area, and look very similar as far as I can tell. 

My history with this mushroom goes back 10 years now, to when I first moved to Texas and found the honeycomb fungus in a nature preserve during the early fall. 

I was disappointed at the time, since from a distance I had thought they might be oyster mushrooms, and I shared my disappointment on my Instagram. In all of my mushroom hunting books Favolus brasiliensis is listed as non-poisonous but also non-edible. To my surprise, one of my fellow foragers--a much better mycologist than myself--told me that the honeycomb fungus is not only edible, it's considered a superfood that's cultivated in Brazil, where it's known as the chicken breast mushroom. 

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Mind blown. 

I immediately began to research and found so much information on this mushroom, it's both amazing and sad that it remains so unknown in the US. 

Having finally found a nice amount to experiment with, I didn't want to waste them by preparing them incorrectly, so I decided to do some research on how other people prepared them. Unfortunately, as they are pretty much unknown outside of the Brazilian Rainforest, there wasn't a whole lot of information about how to properly prepare them. I only found 2 posts, one from the Central Texas Mycological Society and one from a blog called Retratos da Serra, which chronicles one couple's adventures in nature, living in the area. It's a fascinating blog, tbh. 

Anyway, in both posts the mushrooms were fried into a chip, which sounds interesting, but I didn't want to do that again, since it had been done. Forage.atx with the Central TX Myco society said that, once boiled, the mushroom has a texture similar to chicharrones or pig's ears. I like both of those things, pig's ears more so, and so I decided to try a classic Filipino dish that is traditionally made with them: Sisig. 

So, Sisig is a dish I've never made before and a cursory inspection of recipes online ranged from very simple to exceedingly complex, with some involving Asian mayonnaise and/or coconut milk. The simple preparations seemed to serve as the "core" of the more elaborate dishes, as well as standing as a dish on their own. 

Despite finding a fair number of mushrooms,
this is what was left after cleaning

You know me, so simple is what I was going for, especially since I had a relatively small haul. So, I focused on what all the recipes had in common, starting with what defined a "Sisig" in the first place. 

The term apparently means "to make sour," and while the original includes pigs' ears and/or cheeks and/or liver, the real key ingredient seems to be calamansi fruit or juice to make the sour. The calamansi, also known as Filipino lemon, Filipino lime, or calamondin, is a hybrid citrus fruit made by crossing a kumquat with an orange. I don't have access to the calamansi here, and I couldn't easily get my hands on any of the juice that wasn't in a "juice mix," since I am boycotting the country's largest internet retailer. So, I just used limes instead.

A fair number of Sisig recipes I've found omit the calamansi and replace with limes or even vinegar, so I'm not sure how much my version is a compromise. 

The dish officially calls for Thai birds' eye chillis. I used the first few ripening chilis from my Thai pepper plants, though I don't know exactly what they are. I exchanged some foraged mushrooms with a Thai neighbor for the seedling plants and she just told me they were Thai peppers. 

Recipe: Honeycomb fungus and oyster mushroom "Sisig"

• 
  2-3 cups dried oyster mushrooms
• 2-3 cups frozen honeycomb fungus
• 1 large jalapeño pepper, cut into matchsticks or coins
• 3-4 Thai hot peppers, minced (or to taste)
• 2 limes, juiced and zested
• 1 large shallot or half a red onion, sliced thinly
• 6 cloves of garlic, minced
• 2" of ginger, 1" grated & 1" sliced
• 1 bunch of scallions/green onions
• 3/4 cup light/regular soy sauce, divided into 1 portion of 1/4 cup and 1 portion of 1/2 cup
• 2 tbs dark soy sauce
• 2 star anise
• 2 tsps Asian 5-spice powder
• 2 tps lemongrass powder (optional)
• Salt
• 2 pats of butter (optional, omit for vegan)
• Avocado oil 
• Rice or rice vermicelli to serve

1. 
   To 5 cups of water, add in a spice bag that contains the sliced ginger, the soft, dark green tops of the green onions, the skin of the shallot or red onion, 2 star anise and 1/4 cup of soy sauce. Bring to a boil. 
2. Add in the frozen honeycomb fungus and dried oyster mushrooms. Simmer for 20-30 minutes until oyster mushrooms are fully reconstituted. I used this time to slice all of my vegetables. 
3. Drain your mushrooms, reserving liquid (optional). Dispose of spice bag. 
4. Squeeze as much moisture as you can from the mushrooms.
5. Reconstitute your rice or rice vermicelli in the reserved, seasoned liquid.  
6. Mix together the 1/2 cup of light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, lemongrass powder (optional), 5 spice powder and the juice and zest of 2 limes. Divide in half and set aside.
7. 
   In a large sauté pan, (I used a 5 qt.), melt 1 pat of butter (optional) and heat a glug of avocado oil over medium heat. 
   
8. Sauté your mushrooms in the pan. You don't need to add more oil or butter. Let them get mostly dry, then sprinkle with salt to help bring out more moisture. Reduce temperature to medium and continue to sauté for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms develop a nice, tawny caramelization. 
9. Add the shallot or onion, grated ginger, scallions, peppers, and garlic to the pan. Sauté, stirring constantly. Add in the other pat of butter, if using, and another glug of avocado oil. Sauté until onion starts to become translucent. 
10. Pour in half the soy sauce mixture and stir through. Continue to cook until onions and peppers are fully cooked and the liquid is absorbed. 
11. Reduce heat to low. Mix in your rice or rice vermicelli and the rest of the soy sauce mix. Toss everything to combine, coat everything and heat through. 

The honeycomb fungus absorbs flavors more than any other mushroom I've found, but it still remains rather unpleasantly chewy, even after freezing and lots of cooking. 

Mushroom bacon with foraged wild oysters. Vegan, keto and oven-fried.

Super short but oh-so-delicious post for you today. 

Oyster. Mushroom. Bacon.

It's salty. It's savory. It's blackened, but not smoked.  It's both crisp and chewy. 

Oven roasting or grilling oyster mushrooms has long been my favorite way to prepare them fresh. They just get so super umami over high heat.

The middle of the caps are the most meaty in terms of texture, and really showcase the best mushroom flavor, but the most delectible bits are always the outer edges. Those edges, thin fleshed and naturally drier, get crispy brown or blackened, almost like deep fried. 

I came upon this decent-sized haul of winter oyster mushrooms yesterday, while hunting for pecans. The caps were enormous, 6 to 12 inches across, and very thick in the middle. In the summer, oysters at this level of maturity would be fully infested with bugs, but because this is the winter they were flawless  inside, very fresh, and exceedingly dense: full of moisture. 

That said, mature oyster mushrooms that have already dropped their spores tend to be a little less flavorful than when they are younger and still have in-rolled edges. 

With that in mind, I was thinking about ways to make the entire mushroom more like the crispy/oven fried bits, with less of the chewy/meatiness. I decided to salt them and let them sit and drain for a while, desiccating the mushrooms somewhat, so that the whole thing would crisp up and get caramelized. This added to the total prep time, but as I had plenty else to do -- and the mushrooms were just kinda sitting around--it worked out great. 

Keto, vegan oyster mushroom bacon

2 lbs oyster mushrooms, caps whole or nearly so
1/2 cup olive oil or high-heat oil of your choice
1 tbs. kosher salt
3 tbs. smoked paprika
2 tbs. garlic powder
1 tbs. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. ground celery seed

1. Rinse your mushrooms, cleaning off any debris, and lightly pat dry -- leaving them still slightly damp. 
2. Sprinkle the mushrooms with salt, paprika, garlic powder, celery seed and black pepper and set in a colander or on layers of paper towel to drain. The salt will help draw the moisture out of the mushrooms, encouraging them to really crisp up in the oven. Let sit for 40-60 minutes. 
3. When the mushrooms are ready (they should be about 3/4 the size they were before, with a lot of water having been drawn out of them, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. 
4. Arrange the mushroom caps on a foil-coated baking sheet, they shouldn't touch or overlap each other. 
5. Drizzle with olive oil, flip and drizzle the other side as well. Brush both sides to coat. 
6. Bake at 400 for 30-60 mins, depending on the cap thickness. After that, check and see if your caps are crispy fried. If your caps are thick, you will need to flip them and keep them in for another 15-30 minutes. 
7. Enjoy however you would bacon!

These mushrooms are low-carb, low-fat, keto, vegan and vegetarian, and paleo. They can be served as a side dish, snack or main course. The only real thing to watch out for are high amounts of salt. 

Unrelated note, here are some of the things I foraged yesterday: 

Vegetarian Mock Fried Clams with Oyster Mushrooms

Snowmageddon 2021 has passed through Texas, leaving many without power, water or heat, or others with frozen and broken pipes. 

I thank everyone who has reached out to inquire as to our safety, it means so very much. 

We are quite well, and very lucky. We never lost power, though we only just got our internet back. We did have the pool and some pipes freeze, as our temperatures inside the house dropped below 50. Apparently our gas meter's regulator was not set for that kind of prolonged cold, but the gas company did come out and get it tweaked for us to the point were it could keep up. 

Our street was never plowed, nor were neighboring streets, throughout the entirety of the situation. We hadn't really hit up the grocery stores (which were packed and sold out) before the snow started, as honestly, we didn't think it would be that bad. So we have been making do with what's in the pantry for the past week. 

Before I get into the post, I wanted to again thank all my readers who continually reach out even through my long disappearances. I'm back because of you. 

Vegetarian, foraged oyster mushroom chowder

It's important to know the right mushroom for every task.

When you go to buy oyster mushrooms in the store, you will find that the caps are very small (less than 2" across) and still feature "in-rolled" edges. Basically the edges of the caps roll down and under, towards the gills. This is considered the best time to eat oysters, as they have not yet released their spores, and the flesh is at it's most firm and meaty.

They basically look like this:

When the caps are still rolled down towards the gills,
oyster mushrooms have their best firmness. 

It's easy to harvest "optimal" mushrooms when you are farm-raising them. But in the wild, you generally don't have the luxury, unless you know a spot you can visit every day. Most often the oysters you find in the wild will have flat caps, occasionally with rippled and/or cracked edges. They will mostly look like this:

Older oyster mushrooms are less firm, and work best in soups,
gravies, and after being dried and reconstituted.

Older oyster mushrooms, like the ones above, loose some of that firmness, and are less meaty. Some foragers will even bypass these "spongy" specimens, but they still have a lot of flavor, and are perfect in the right application. By pureeing these mushrooms, like in soups or gravies, you avoid the texture issues.

You can also dehydrate older oyster mushrooms. Once reconstituted, they will have a unique texture--not firm and "mushroomy" like the young ones, but more meaty, almost rubbery a bit. Rather like cooked clams, which is what made me want to try this dish.

Being a native New Englander living in Texas, I sometimes find myself overwhelmed with the desire for foods I simply can't get around here. Sometimes it's lobster rolls, but most often it's clam chowder.  I'd heard that oyster mushrooms can make a passible substitute for clam chowder, and I was highly skeptical, but I decided to give it a shot.

Wild mushroom chicken marsala with foraged oyster mushrooms

So much for my plan to post new content every week.

This happens to me every so often, I get overwhelmed with life and have to withdraw from online socialization for a while.

Then to make matters worse, I developed plantar fasciitis, and have been struggling with it for months. Finally, with the help of new sneakers (I've spent a small fortune trying different pairs), and a lot of reflexology, I'm feeling good enough to forage again. However, I can only go on the weekends, as I have to get a foot massage afterwards, to keep things from tensing up again. I've only been feeling this good for a couple of weeks, so hopefully it keeps up.

Of course, the past few weeks have had incredibly unseasonable cold here in the DFW area, so I wouldn't have been out anyway. And a lot of the plants and mushrooms I enjoy in December were killed off by the low temps. Still, this weekend reached the upper 60s, and I was able to get out into the woods, where the mild temps and moisture created an oyster mushroom fungal bloom!

This is my take on your classic chicken marsala recipe. It’s pretty standard except for the use of wild mushrooms (in this case oysters) and the addition of soy sauce, balsamic vinegar and aged balsamic.

I’m going to soapbox for a bit about oyster mushrooms, and human/forest interaction. If you just want the recipe, please feel free to skip down to where you see the recipe subhead.

Vegetarian hot & sour soup from scratch, made with 3 wild mushrooms and burdock. Gluten free, high protein, low sugar, low carb

Today's recipe is amazing. It's super healthy, tastes great, and is jam-packed with vitamin, iron and mineral-rich wild mushrooms. It's a better-for-you, scratch-made, vegetarian version of classic take-out Chinese: hot and sour soup. It's low in fat, low in carbs, high in protein, and gluten-free.

It's also much more time consuming than anything I usually make, clocking in at about an hour and 45 minutes (but it makes a TON and it's totally worth it), and you're probably going to need to hit up an Asian market for all the ingredients.

But if I haven't scared you off yet, let me just say again: totally worth it.

With three kinds of wild mushrooms it's got a ton of umami flavor, you won't miss the meat! It's spicy and sour and thick and richly textured. While we usually think of hot and sour as an appetizer, this is totally a complete and filling meal.

Wood ear mushrooms are a superfood, cholesterol-lowering, hypoglycemic, and tumor-reducing!

I've used 3 kinds of foraged mushrooms here, but you can also use store-bought. Just make sure to pick a good texture mix. So you need 1 kind of meaty mushroom (oysters, shiitake, or hen of the wood), and 1 kind of soft mushroom (I used honey mushrooms*, but you could use beech or enoki as well), and wood ear mushrooms. You absolutely have to have wood ears, they are the traditional black fungus that gives hot and sour soup it's unique texture. They can be purchased, dried, in Asian markets.

Balsamic soy wild mushroom pizza. Vegetarian foraged honey, oyster and velvet shank recipe.

When my husband and I lived in the Northeast, one of our favorite restaurants was The Continental. They have locations in Philadelphia, Atlantic City, and the surrounding areas. The food is great, the atmosphere is retro, and they do awesome things with mixing and fusion cuisine.

Winter oyster mushrooms

One seasonal dish they make is a balsamic soy flatbread pizza with wild mushrooms. I've seen a lot of balsamic soy mushroom recipes, but something about theirs always stood out. Maybe it's the wild mushrooms or the quality of the aged balsamic, but the dish was really superior. Since then we have played around with a ton of variations, and they've all been good (my favorite is with hen-of-the-wood mushrooms!). This one uses honey, velvet foot, and wild oyster mushrooms - all foraged. 

I hope you like this recipe, it's one you can make with store-bought mushrooms if you like - try cremini, shiitake, or store-bought oysters or hen-of-the-woods.

The rich flavors of wild mushrooms and aged balsamic mean you don't have to go crazy with the cheese to still have a decadent pizza, keeping it low in fat and as healthy as pizza can be. Which isn't very healthy, but still. . . sometimes you just have to have pizza!

Velvet shank or velvet foot mushrooms, another winter species that makes a great pizza topping

Winter oyster mushroom identification tips for foragers, locavores and more! Easy winter foraging for wild food.

Identification difficulty: Novice

December 2016 saw an abundance of one of my favorite mushrooms: the winter oyster (Pleurotus ostreatus). I wasn't the only one finding abundant flushes, Instagram was filled with pictures from all over the country.

Winter oysters are one of the best edible mushrooms. They're frequently HUGE - I've found caps that are 9 inches across when fully mature, though 4 - 6 is more common. They have a super-dense, meaty texture, even more so than summer or store-bought oyster mushrooms. They make an exceptional vegan alternative to meat or seafood, especially when properly prepared. They are also great on the grill.

NOTE: there is another mushroom sometimes called the fall or winter oyster mushroom. It looks very similar to Pleurotus ostreatus, but it's actually totally different -- even in a different family. It's Latin name is Panellus serotinus, and it's edible too, but can be bitter, and requires a LOT of long, slooow cooking. It has a different stem and often a different color. Keep reading for more information.

While not exactly a beginner's mushroom, I personally consider the winter oyster mushroom to be a pretty straightforward identification, even for the novice. Summer oysters are actually harder to ID, because there are more similar looking species when it's warm. In just 5 simple steps, you too could be enjoying these tasty foraged mushrooms!

Deconstructed vegan sushi bowl with wild mushrooms. Gluten-freewildcrafted food. Foraging recipe.

Merry Christmas and happy holidays. With such an abundance of wild winter mushrooms in the woods this year, I feel like I've already unwrapped tons of presents. I've found nearly 10lbs of one of my favorites: Pleurotus ostreatus, aka the winter oyster mushroom! Oyster mushrooms are found in temperate regions, and even in the tropics, world-wide. They are fairly easy to identify, have medicinal qualities, and frequently fruit in abundance, making them a great wild food. And, of course, you don't have to forage for them, you can get them at almost any market!

Foraged purslane Okonomiyaki. Japanese "pizza" from invasive weeds. Vegetarian optional.

The rain finally came to Texas, and broke the breeze-less 100+ degree heat. With that kind of weather, I hadn't been seeing many edible wild plants, except for heat-loving purslane. Even purslane needs water though, and the plants were wilted, shrunken, and unappetizing.

All that changed with the rain. The purslane fleshed out, becoming plump and succulent. As I've mentioned before, up north I always found purslane in really gross locations--like the parking lot behind and auto repair shop. I never found "clean" plants in great abundance, not enough to run real culinary experiments with.

So I was really excited to finally have enough purslane to try some new dishes. This is my first one: an okonomiyaki, a Japanese street food. Okonomiyaki is sometimes called "Japanese Pizza" because, like pizza in America, it's a popular snack and quick meal food which can be customized with a wide variety of toppings.

My vegetarian okonomiyaki, with king oyster mushrooms

"Normal" okonomiyaki is made from cabbage, and uses a special flour, which has been thickened with rice or yam. It also contains seasonings, including dashi (made from fermented fish). I've never actually used that flour, I've just experimented with changing proportions to get the right thickness, and with spices commonly found in an American home.