Foraging recipe: Oyster and honeycomb mushroom Sisig

Don't want to hear me go on and on about foraging? Click here to jump to the recipe. 

I find myself foraging the same foods (my favorites) year after year, rather than focusing on trying new things for variety. So this year I set out with clear goals in mind:

1.  I was going to try and find honeycomb fungus (Favolus brasiliensis), an early-season polypore superfood that can only be found in this part of Texas in unusually rainy springs. 
2. I was going to pick lots of early-season giant ragweed, Ambrosia trifida, and experiment with it in the kitchen. 

Ultimately, I was successful in the first, but unsuccessful in the second. 

The flooding blocked off many familiar trails, and made others too dangerous to attempt

Here's what happened. I arrived at the park where I know lots of giant ragweed grows only to find that it was closed for safety considerations due to flooding. Several bridges were out, including the one I would have needed to use to get to the giant ragweed field. So that was a no-go. 

Instead, I decided to check out the nature preserve that butts up against the park in question. This preserve is on the other side of a large creek/small river from the park, but shares a lot of ecological features. Unfortunately, both entrances to the preserve were flooded out as well. 

Something compelled me to keep walking past the main entrances, uphill, to see if there was another way into the preserve. Eventually, I found a small desire path/trail, perhaps made by mountain bikers, that seemed to be clear, and I made my way inside.   

Even though I had been in this preserve many times before, I found myself in a part of it that was completely unfamiliar. Fortunately, more flooding and downed trees blocked most of the meandering and crossing trails, offering me only one way forward. Occasionally it would appear that there were alternate trails that were clear, but always I would find them blocked at some point, leading to a lot of climbing over downed trees, going off-trail to bypass bogs and a ton of backtracking. 

Eventually I did find one branch of the desire path I was on that connected to the main trails of the preserve, but ultimately those trails ended up completely impassable, leading me back to the desire paths made by mountain bikers and fishermen. 

After an hour and a half of that, I decided to give up on trying to find a field of giant ragweed and simply harvest the abundance that was all around me. Within 30 minutes my bags were bulging with favorites like curly dock, greenbrier, wood ear mushrooms and wild garlic scapes. And then I finally found some of the honeycomb fungus I've been looking for years! 

It took me another hour to get out of the preserve. I was absolutely drenched, covered in mud, and feeling amazing!

Once home, I had my first usable batch of honeycomb fungus, or Favolus brasiliensis, or possibly the related Favolus teniculus. Both are edible, grow in my area, and look very similar as far as I can tell. 

My history with this mushroom goes back 10 years now, to when I first moved to Texas and found the honeycomb fungus in a nature preserve during the early fall. 

I was disappointed at the time, since from a distance I had thought they might be oyster mushrooms, and I shared my disappointment on my Instagram. In all of my mushroom hunting books Favolus brasiliensis is listed as non-poisonous but also non-edible. To my surprise, one of my fellow foragers--a much better mycologist than myself--told me that the honeycomb fungus is not only edible, it's considered a superfood that's cultivated in Brazil, where it's known as the chicken breast mushroom. 

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Mind blown. 

I immediately began to research and found so much information on this mushroom, it's both amazing and sad that it remains so unknown in the US. 

Having finally found a nice amount to experiment with, I didn't want to waste them by preparing them incorrectly, so I decided to do some research on how other people prepared them. Unfortunately, as they are pretty much unknown outside of the Brazilian Rainforest, there wasn't a whole lot of information about how to properly prepare them. I only found 2 posts, one from the Central Texas Mycological Society and one from a blog called Retratos da Serra, which chronicles one couple's adventures in nature, living in the area. It's a fascinating blog, tbh. 

Anyway, in both posts the mushrooms were fried into a chip, which sounds interesting, but I didn't want to do that again, since it had been done. Forage.atx with the Central TX Myco society said that, once boiled, the mushroom has a texture similar to chicharrones or pig's ears. I like both of those things, pig's ears more so, and so I decided to try a classic Filipino dish that is traditionally made with them: Sisig. 

So, Sisig is a dish I've never made before and a cursory inspection of recipes online ranged from very simple to exceedingly complex, with some involving Asian mayonnaise and/or coconut milk. The simple preparations seemed to serve as the "core" of the more elaborate dishes, as well as standing as a dish on their own. 

Despite finding a fair number of mushrooms,
this is what was left after cleaning

You know me, so simple is what I was going for, especially since I had a relatively small haul. So, I focused on what all the recipes had in common, starting with what defined a "Sisig" in the first place. 

The term apparently means "to make sour," and while the original includes pigs' ears and/or cheeks and/or liver, the real key ingredient seems to be calamansi fruit or juice to make the sour. The calamansi, also known as Filipino lemon, Filipino lime, or calamondin, is a hybrid citrus fruit made by crossing a kumquat with an orange. I don't have access to the calamansi here, and I couldn't easily get my hands on any of the juice that wasn't in a "juice mix," since I am boycotting the country's largest internet retailer. So, I just used limes instead.

A fair number of Sisig recipes I've found omit the calamansi and replace with limes or even vinegar, so I'm not sure how much my version is a compromise. 

The dish officially calls for Thai birds' eye chillis. I used the first few ripening chilis from my Thai pepper plants, though I don't know exactly what they are. I exchanged some foraged mushrooms with a Thai neighbor for the seedling plants and she just told me they were Thai peppers. 

Recipe: Honeycomb fungus and oyster mushroom "Sisig"

• 
  2-3 cups dried oyster mushrooms
• 2-3 cups frozen honeycomb fungus
• 1 large jalapeño pepper, cut into matchsticks or coins
• 3-4 Thai hot peppers, minced (or to taste)
• 2 limes, juiced and zested
• 1 large shallot or half a red onion, sliced thinly
• 6 cloves of garlic, minced
• 2" of ginger, 1" grated & 1" sliced
• 1 bunch of scallions/green onions
• 3/4 cup light/regular soy sauce, divided into 1 portion of 1/4 cup and 1 portion of 1/2 cup
• 2 tbs dark soy sauce
• 2 star anise
• 2 tsps Asian 5-spice powder
• 2 tps lemongrass powder (optional)
• Salt
• 2 pats of butter (optional, omit for vegan)
• Avocado oil 
• Rice or rice vermicelli to serve

1. 
   To 5 cups of water, add in a spice bag that contains the sliced ginger, the soft, dark green tops of the green onions, the skin of the shallot or red onion, 2 star anise and 1/4 cup of soy sauce. Bring to a boil. 
2. Add in the frozen honeycomb fungus and dried oyster mushrooms. Simmer for 20-30 minutes until oyster mushrooms are fully reconstituted. I used this time to slice all of my vegetables. 
3. Drain your mushrooms, reserving liquid (optional). Dispose of spice bag. 
4. Squeeze as much moisture as you can from the mushrooms.
5. Reconstitute your rice or rice vermicelli in the reserved, seasoned liquid.  
6. Mix together the 1/2 cup of light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, lemongrass powder (optional), 5 spice powder and the juice and zest of 2 limes. Divide in half and set aside.
7. 
   In a large sauté pan, (I used a 5 qt.), melt 1 pat of butter (optional) and heat a glug of avocado oil over medium heat. 
   
8. Sauté your mushrooms in the pan. You don't need to add more oil or butter. Let them get mostly dry, then sprinkle with salt to help bring out more moisture. Reduce temperature to medium and continue to sauté for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms develop a nice, tawny caramelization. 
9. Add the shallot or onion, grated ginger, scallions, peppers, and garlic to the pan. Sauté, stirring constantly. Add in the other pat of butter, if using, and another glug of avocado oil. Sauté until onion starts to become translucent. 
10. Pour in half the soy sauce mixture and stir through. Continue to cook until onions and peppers are fully cooked and the liquid is absorbed. 
11. Reduce heat to low. Mix in your rice or rice vermicelli and the rest of the soy sauce mix. Toss everything to combine, coat everything and heat through. 

The honeycomb fungus absorbs flavors more than any other mushroom I've found, but it still remains rather unpleasantly chewy, even after freezing and lots of cooking.